UPDATE: Halfway?!

Well, i suppose it is high time i write another update to you all! Believe it or not, wednesday May 26 marked the halfway point of our trip--i can't believe how fast it is going. Let me bring you up to speed on a few different things. and knowing me, i'll probably make the length worth the wait ;)

CLASSES

i believe at the time of my last update, we had two classes total with the hope of more to come. We needn't have worried... we now have 11 classes between the four of us with TESOL training--in fact, two of the boys (non-TESOL) have had to step up and help teach two of those classes. we came close to being spread a little too thin, but were able to arrange classes between us (they're at three different centers, by the way, each a good 15-20 min walk apart). Some classes are in the afternoon, but most are in the evening. Most classes are ten or less students, some closer to five. Most are for conversation and general lessons, but we also have one academic writing class, and two classes that are prep for the TOEFL test (a standardized english test for college entrance).

Aside from my original 5PM class with 4 students, i now have a 12:30 PM class with just a few students, and on the occasional days that Jon can't teach his night class, i power walk after mine to the lincoln center 3 to teach it.

The smaller classes are difficult sometimes, especially when attendance is low, but i really enjoy my 5:00 class and the others are going well. I think overall there is a majority of women students, but there are a few men also.

Some classes last two weeks, and some four.

Several of us have had chances to have coffee (or tea in my case) with some of our students, which has been great. Laura and i have gone several times with one girl, who is only 21... she is very sweet and we have enjoyed spending time with her. she and another one of my students continue to come to the church that meets here on sundays.

THE GROUP

we have mostly been good as far as health, with only a few small troubles, but are getting better. I think we'd all agree that our group has been getting along very well and working well together, even when we're spread out and don't see everyone as much. over the last weekend we went to the historic city of kruja, it was really beautiful. bought a few things in the old street markets... it was really cool. and we went to the museum, and saw a statue of the old Albanian hero Skanderbeg. we also went to a restaurant and got "fresh chicken"... Genci told us that it would take a bit longer because they have to catch and kill the chicken when we order it... laura of course thought he was teasing, but he wasn't after all. the girls were quite taken aback. ;) we laughed as Laura insisted, "i can still taste it running around in my mouth!!" hahah. but what a gorgeous view, there were ruins and kids playing soccer in them, we got some really great pictures. (i'll have to post them on facebook, later).

A FEW TIDBITS ABOUT ALBANIA

about the religious atmosphere: a LOT of the people we meet will say they're muslim, but of those almost none are practicing at all. some even claim to be muslim when they have started going to a different church... Just as many in the US may perhaps call themselves Jewish or Catholic more by ethnicity or family tradition than actual practice. So, although the great majority of people we meet would call themselves "muslim" as is reflected in Albanian demographics, i think we have yet to MEET one who is actually practicing to a significant extent... although we have seen just a few here and there on the streets with the head coverings. only very few.

Eclectic Stories from Albania, Part II: Mitchell

Dear old Mitchell had his share of interesting experiences. Being proudly Chinese (that is, both sets of grandparents were born in China ;) ) Mitchell was a less common sight for many Albanians. Mitchell took most of it in stride, though I’m sure some of the “China, China!” or “Kinez!” ruffled his feathers a bit.

But one of our favorite funny stories: Mitchell was walking with a few others when suddenly an older man caught him by the arm. “Excuse me! Are you from America?” Mitchell said that he was, and the man seemed very excited. “Oh! Listen. I have two nieces. One in Chicago, and one in Los Angeles! Would you like to have coffee?” It quickly became apparent to Mitchell that the man was very interested in setting Mitchell up with one of his nieces… Others who were there may even say that the man practically proposed to Mitchell for his nieces. Hey Mitchell, come on, live a little! (…though perhaps he was waiting not for an Albanian, but for a lovely German girl… ;) )

We also shared a few giggles and eye-rolls when a few of us were approached by an Albanian man who was a Jehovah’s Witness. He didn’t speak much English at all, but tried animatedly to give us some informational pamphlets, quickly sorting through to find English ones. Seeing Mitchell, he pointed his finger as if to say “Aha—wait—“ and then proudly produced a pamphlet in Chinese. Mitchell doesn’t really read Chinese, besides a few numbers and the word for “Japanese person” which he taught me… “No,” explained Mitchell over and over. “I’m from America, I speak English! I don’t read Chinese! …English!” Finally the man understood and gave a resounding “Ah!” continuing, “I’m sorry. I thought, because, you know—“ and he proceeded to gesture towards Mitchell and then stretch his eyes with his fingers to make them look squinted. A few of us suppressed our surprised laughter, catching one another’s glances. Mitchell just sighed as he often does when exasperated, rolling his eyes good-humoredly.

Mitchell once had the experience of substitute teaching Kendra’s class… unfortunately, the poor guy had been given the wrong book to prepare and found himself in the class as if he were up a creek without a paddle! …Though according to Kendra, the students appreciated her that much more when she returned.

Finally was the infamous time when Stephen and Laura were chasing Mitchell around a pool during our VERY windy day at the beach in Durres, commanding him to get in the pool (clothes and all). When he refused, he was struck by a haphazard piece of pipe, blowing in the wind, which cut his head open (not bad, but enough to bleed quite a bit and have all the girls in quite a stir). Indeed he survived, and of course his fuzzy Asian hair quickly grew to cover the scar.

Eva and Hospitality

Monday, May

Eva is such a blessing! She is lots of fun and full of comfort and interesting things. She is like our wonderful Albanian mother (though I suppose many of these qualities are hallmarks of Albanian culture itself). Every evening we happily receive her warm greeting and smell her warm, delicious cooking. she insists that we make ourselves fully at home. There seems to be something among Albanians where they'd almost be offended if you didn't allow them the opportunity to go out of their way to make you at home. It's a learning point for many of us Americans, who often live our lives to be as little inconvenience to others as possible. Lest we seem cold to some other cultures, I think it is good for us to learn to be humble enough to accept hospitality graciously, to sometimes allow ourselves to be served. This almost sounds heretical as I write it--Christians, of course, are called to serve others. But I do not think that this necessarily excludes allowing chances for others to serve us as well. I mean that we should have an attitude of humility, whether that be in serving others or in graciously accepting the help or kindness that others give us.

I don't know if Eva knows just how much she ministers to us. She works as a nanny, often for families of foreign diplomats... That certainly suits her. She has the type of heart that looks on the children practically as her very own and cares for them as such... like she has done for us. I even chuckle when she gives us motherly advice or scoldings--from choosing the absolute best food for us to eat when we're sick, to insisting that if i go to bed with wet hair, i will wake up with a cold or cough. Mama Eva...That's her.

college-career study

two of my students came to church on sunday, which was surprising and great... one went to the albanian service and one went to the english service. one is probably 40 or so and the other is just 21--it was awesome to see how the albanians came to reach out to get them to feel welcome too--introduced them to some of the youth--the lovely wife of our translator was very kind to both, and then one of the youth got the phone number of the younger one... so good to know they now have someone besides just us and they seem glad to continue. :)

the bible study we went to is just a time after the service where some of the young adults go and discuss the sermon... the one couple whose house we went to is hoping to become missionaries to Bosnia, a pretty closed muslim country. they say it is easier for people from here, who have some muslim background however faint, to get into countries like that as missionaries.

about the religious atmosphere: a LOT of the people we meet will say they're muslim, but of those almost none are devoutly practicing at all, and even if they have been to the mosque, it isn't often, and you wouldn't guess they're

muslim by their dress. one woman said (paraphrasing). "i am muslim... but i normally go to the orthodox church because my husband works there. but it's no problem to come to your church!" another young girl said, interestingly, "i am muslim...but i want to change to catholic or orthodox, because i don't think that i should have to dress a certain way or wear a certain outfit just to say i believe in God." another said she is muslim, but goes to the mosque maybe once a month or so. a young married man who shared his testimony with us said that he had been rather committed to being muslim (at least as far as not turning to another religion), as his sister tried and tried to persuade him towards christianity despite his persecution of her beliefs... and finally, God changed his heart... this was the man who plans to go to bosnia as a missionary. So, although the great majority of people we meet would call themselves "muslim" as is reflected in info about Albania demographics, i think we have yet to MEET one who is actually practicing to a significant extent... although we have seen just a few here and there on the streets with the head coverings. only very few.

Pearl

we were walking to someone's house for a lunch and bible study, and on the way there we found a little kitten--all of the cats here that i have ever seen have this permanent look on their faces of "i've been running for my life since birth, now that i'm safe for a moment, where is the next dog car or little boy with a stick to come after me?" haha poor cats, but anyway, we found this tiny kitten, looking scared and running, so one of the boys (mitchell) cornered it and finally cought it... it was nervous but finally relaxed in our hands aand was purring and we gave it some water... SOO cute and i am still laughing because, like all the other cats, it at first had this funny expression like it's eyes had been glued open, like too much coffee, etc... ha. but the man to whose house we were going said his wife loved cats, so we brought it to her and named her pearl. super cute but she will have to get used to not having to be scared all the time. she was real friendly and playful when she was comfortable. they bathed her in the bodet with hand soap, hahah.

Eclectic Stories from Albania, Part 1

But what would our trip be without its share of funny, strange, and ridiculous stories? Well, it certainly wouldn't be as interesting as it was. I doubt I shall do them all proper justice, but at least I'll try.

I suppose the first story that one of my readers would have me share took place on the very first flight, from LAX to Heathrow. Since our tickets had been bought last and separately from the rest of the group, poor Jon got stuck sitting next to me on nearly every flight. We were not so far from strangers on the first one, and I remember him making some attempts at conversation, which I probably fumbled a bit. After we were content with silence and keeping mostly to ourselves, it was nearly meal time. I don't know which meal it was, that's the confusing part of such long flights across time zones! But it was lasagna, and the smells mingled and wafted all across the plane from every direction (a good thing? you decide). And I was hungry! And excited, and probably nervous, and anxious, and happy, and tired, and...who knows what else. Finally food came; Jon and I shared a few words as he passed my food in from his aisle seat. Stomach rumbling, I lifted the foil lid and poked it with my spork. Think somewhere between TV dinner and cafeteria food. I don't know whether it was the food, the smells, the emotions, or the near-stranger next to me (ha ha), but all of a sudden, I really didn't feel so good.

Now, as Jon would tell it, he had just arrived at one of the best parts of the ride, had opened up his orange chicken or whatever it was, put in his headphones, reclined his seat, and got his little movie all set to watch, when--*tap-tap* "Um, Jon? I need to go to the bathroom."

"Right now?"

I felt bad. Yes, right now!! As I'd find out for sure later, he must not have noticed my pale clammy face of nausea. The poor guy sighed and slowly paused his movie... took out his headphones... lifted his tray table...unbuckled his seatbelt... and picked up his food to stand in the aisle to let me out. I thought it was a miracle that I made it to the bathroom in time!--although we now admit it may have at least made for a good story if I had indeed lost my lunch on him. ;)

Probably two or three weeks later, when "first impressions" came up in a group conversation, part of it went something like this:

"Wait, you threw up?! Why didn't you say so?!"

"What was I supposed to say?! Couldn't you tell I was in a hurry?" ;)

Fortunately, the rest of that flight (and even other ones where I had to sit next to Jon) was delightful. ;)

Another funny but short story, I suppose, was one night when a laughing Laura told me that I looked like a duck. I don't think she ever explained why, but we do have some interesting photos to go along with that equally interesting evening.

2 Peter 1:3

Thursday, May (Apparently I am far too reliant on my cell phone to tell me the date)

At the moment, I am rather humbled at how much grace God has given our team so far… I mean this in particular with getting along agreeably and bearing with one another. We may have small rough moments and such, but as of the moment as far as I know, none of us have any standing issues of bitterness or aggravation with any of the others, which is great. It makes an incredible difference to have a team unified to support and encourage one another in ministry, something I’ve missed for a while (although indeed FCC youth staff and such are great, it’s just stronger and more noticeable here). Communication flows (except when it is miscommunicated, but that is expectable). Lord, this unity is perhaps the one thing I most desire for our team, which I have so longed for in times past… I can’t thank you enough, God, for this blessing. Please continue it and mature us to be your servants… and seasoned with salt!

UPDATE: First Lesson at the Lincoln, Albania

Its been chillly and rainy the past two days, but this morning the sun is out again. forgive my spelling as i'm typing without looking at the screen much because of its angle...

Last night at 5:00 (which is 9 hours before California's 5:00) was my very first lesson! I am glad to say i think it went quite well. we spent the earlier part of teh day having an orientation, planning our lessons and chatting as a group. i was a bit nervous before... it was diffcult to know what to expect on my first night... i didn't know my students, i didn't know how enthusiastic or antagonistic theywould be, and even more so i have little experience teaching, and never on the very first night of a class. i've never been my best speaking in front of groups, and even as some of you know better than others, my spoken words just don't always flow as well as written words do for me. Albanians expect their teachers to be expert enough to teach... so i didn't want to tarnish the reputation of the lincoln center or my God. before class i read the story of shadrach, meshach, and abednego, who were thrown in the fiery furnace for their obedience to God, but God preserved them--of course because he loved them and rewarded their obedience, but perhaps especially because he would not show himself to be a God who is not faithful, like the others of the day. and by his miraculous actions through average young people, he was shown as he is, great and powerful. so this was what i had to trust God would do for me, for his reputation (although a classroom is no fiery furnace ;) ). i was just a little bit awkward and nervous at first, but God made it all flow and the lesson went at least as well as i could have hoped! i had six students--originally i had four, but one did not show up, and then three more who registered only last night

showed up. they're all women, mostly in their thirties and forties, with one 16 year old. the focus of the class is conversation (speaking and listening more than reading and writing). i was glad to find that my students were willing enough to speak and practice...that will be helpful! ;)

Stef, one of the girls in our group, sat in to help me with reading dialogues, etc...it was nice to have her, she will teach her first lesson tonight. we were both excited after the end of the lesson and gathered our things and started downstairs, only to be stopped by one of my students, Mylinda (i'll use the english spelling). She is an accountant at a business here, and wants to improve her english so that she can better communicate with her boss, who is not albanian. pray that we will be able to meet her need and relieve this stress in her life. She asked if she could come to the english church service held here on sundays (for more english exposure), which we of course agreed to. she also asked if we would like to go to coffee right then, so we happily joined her! the restaurant was all smoky but it was worth it to spend time talking with her. although we have money set aside to take students to coffee, she would not be convinced to let us pay (as is typical Albanian fashion--they are extremely hospitable and generous people). she hopes to spend more time with us, and i am eager to help her and get to know her. We are all very excited to get started on our work, and it is going well so far. keep praying that it will continue to!

forgot to mention that on saturday we had a good time playing with the youth at the beach at Durres, even though there was stronger wind than we've ever seen and a tree fell on our empty bus ;) without much damage. it was fun to play games and get to know them, and try albanian pizza. (Laura's account of that day)

Well, i know that probably most of you, even if you enjoy hearing from me, don't like reading long emails, so i'll sign off for now. ;) love to you all.

So that you may know my God is faithful,

Jessie

P.S. we are filming minute-long video updates each week, but they'll be sent by snail mail to our school so it will be awhile til they're posted. i'll let you know when they are. (some are here, others may be on facebook)

P.P.S. for any of you who have heard of the protests going on here, don't worry for us. they are close to us i suppose but we are not affected by them in the least (we heard the crowds once)... and the protests don't seem violent or anything at all so far (only a hunger strike). but these things do affect albanians much--they really want to finally have a democratic government with elections free of corruption, so that they can join the european union--but it seems the government still has a long way to go. (Please pray for the government and people of Albania, as similar problems continue today... recent news video)

Reflection on the first day teaching

5-17-10

At times I really think that I enjoy God’s greatness nearly as much upon eating a delicious and longed-for meal as I do upon singing a great hymn... ;) and tonight was such a night. It was a chilly, cloudy, and showery day; and we got lost a bit on the way home, and walked a bit longer in the cold as dusk came. But we were safe, and Eva fed us some incredible soup, some meat with gravy, and a smoothie of kiwi and strawberry for desert. Yum!

Anyway. Today was a long day (at least it feels so now, after walking home) & I had my first lesson, finally! It went well, I think. I was worried a little during lesson planning that I would not fill the time well, but it filled perfectly. I happened before upon the story of Shadrach, Meshach, and Abednego, for whom God did the miraculous for His name’s sake. I was convinced God would glorify his name even through me—“I have glorified it and will glorify it again!” It is for his glory and kingdom, these classes, it is his own glory to be shown in my teaching. I felt mostly calm and confident, & it came along mostly naturally. Teaching is a stretch for me, but stretching is good.

My class is 6-7 women, mostly 30-40 years old, and one 16-year-old. They were rather willing to talk, which is nice. After class, when I had breathed a sigh of having conquered the first lesson and ended on time (my biggest prayer was that they trust my competence, & aside from their laughter when I said I was only 20 years old, I think they did), Stef smiled at me and we started down the marble stairs… who would meet us near the bottom but my student Majlinda (“Mylinda”). She spoke to us and asked to come to the English church service we have here on Sundays, in order to get more English exposure… of course, we gladly agreed! Also she asked us to coffee, and so we went, full of joy and adrenaline.

She tells us she is an accountant, and wishes to learn English to communicate better with her boss, who is not Albanian. It obviously distresses her, she says that she gets nervous and freezes up and is afraid to lose her job—I hope we can meet this need. She says she is a Muslim, but she most often goes to an orthodox church with her husband.

Sunday 5-16-10

Church today J I’ve been reading the book “Stepping Heavenward”… it’s a great story, and of course also full of much good spiritual lessons. One seemingly repetitive theme is our sin and what our reaction to it should be—the book explores our human tendency to get focused on our sin and badness, thinking we can never recover or be profitable for God… this is indeed a temptation for me at times! The character whose journal it is encourages instead (as she learns) that we look to Christ instead in realization that we can never be perfect, but already are in him, who loves us…

It has rained a lot today, off and on, even poured at times. Nice. Church was good, and so was young professionals (college group like). Talked about femininity… I told Laura she ought to show her affirmation to Stephen’s leadership by showing him little kindnesses like giving him a shoulder rub, etc… she thinks my awkward jokes hilarious.

Yesterday we went to the beach at Durres with the youth group, which was tons of fun despite the CRAZY wind. Laura's story of the day here.

Eva’s kindness hospitality is indeed humbling. She is most content when we are, and insists we treat her home like our own… leave our things on the tables and drawers, eat whatever, etc. She is wonderfully kind. And we eat so healthy and well!

Tomorrow is teaching… I shall trust.

UPDATE: The City, and Preparing to Teach

THE CITY

perhaps i shall tell you a bit more about the city (there's much that can be told!). as i said, it is bustling with people and cars and noises and so many smells and merchandise. after communism fell, MANY of the lower levels of buildings have been transformed into shops of all kinds--from clothes to food to perfumes, deorations, postcards, everything. street vendors sell vegetables and any merchandise they've gotten their hands on (not really pushy or anything, just there). we've seen a few gypsy (Roma) beggars as well.

the cars honk all the time, as if it will help ease traffic, and we are told that we must never expect them to wait for us... one of our translators joked that they'll only stop for you if they're afraid you'll dent their car. the other day i laughed to see a car, as if its brakes were out (but i doubt it) honked feverishly and went straight through a crosswalk. but the native albanians know what they're doing in crossings (and we are very careful and watch them), and the city is very walkable. it's not to hard to get around, except that not all streets have names or signs.

i could maybe say that the city looks a bit like you might expect an italian town to look like, with colorful but old & somewhat crumbly buildings, often with balconies that have flower gardens and clothes hanging from the line. There is old tirana and new tirana. although i'm not sure of the dividing line, it is easy to tell the difference. the new buildings are tall and nice, often this is what we see on postcards. the city is more colorful than many american cities, which is nice. it also seems not so different from a mexican city at times, though it is paved usually and has sidewalks, and is not quite so dusty.

old tirana shows its age and the wear of communism and troubles. the area our appartment (eva's) is in is older, the stairs have holes or uneven dips in the cement, and the house below us has decaying clay/pottery shingles. that house also has a turkey (i laughed as it sounded much like dad's funny turkey call) and chickens, and we can hear dogs also. inside eva's appartment though, as i think i've said, is very nice and clean and decorated beautifully, as i think i've told you, although it is small. she tells us that before communism, they had a big beautiful house with a yard. another told us that during communism many houses were taken away (perhaps destroyed or made into government buildings) and many people instead ended up living in the 5-story appartment complexes that went up. there were not many tall buildings at all before this. Eva said that the current mayor of Tirana has done a good job fixing up the city a bit, even if his motives are suspect.

CURRENT EVENTS

right now there is election drama going on, though i'm still trying to find out more (difficult issues to understand when asking those with broken english). as far as i know there are two parties, "democrat" (with mostly democratic ideals) and "socialist" (remnants of communist i think). our host eva tells us she finds it suspicious that the current prime minister, who now insists he is democrat, used to be the secretary of the communist government. i believe that this is the 13th day of a hunger strike by the socialists, i think, who are protesting because, from what i can gather, they believe there was a miscount of votes. if you wish perhaps you could research it more. but it is troubling for many who know what goes on. although i hear that socialist is the minority.

TEACHING

We do not start teaching til monday, although there is an orientation today in which we hope to find out more about the classes will be teaching.

i suppose that's enough for now, i will try to write just a bit later this week if possible when i hear about our teaching, and then i will proabbly write near the beginning of next week.

please pray for me as we go in to teaching... the lincoln center says "learn from the experts" but i do not feel like an expert. in english, in that i speak it, maybe. but not in teaching. i have never really taught english before at all. pray for God's continued grace for me and patience as i learn and practice.

much love to you all and thank you for your interest and prayers.

Jessie

Romans 8:28

5-13-2010

Tonight as I look with much uncertainty towards my task of teaching ahead, I am faced with the verse in Romans 8 that tells me that God not only knew the story of our lives before time, but purposed every part of our lives ahead of time according to his will.

Tirana by Photo

Our street

Colorful buildings!

These guys noticed laura taking pictures, and started waving... She was embarrassed.

Not like it was anything new for her though, really. ;)

The mannequins in these stores always scare me... they are too realistic, I jump when I realize they're fake!

Olives galore!!

Teehee ;)

The pyramid, a remnant relic of communist days.

The mosque

I like this one.

Pretty balcony staircase

A government building, I think

A salesman in the park

A child of the Roma people, napping as he begs.

A favorite (and really lucky) shot

The bushes in this one area always made me chuckle. Not a single one was trimmed in the same shape...all so unique and unusual!

Old men talking in the park... a very common sight ;)

walking the streets with the girls

One of the many "Coffee bars"--for tasty drinks and lots of conversation

Lincoln Center 2, our home base.

First UPDATE--Albania

Hi!

I arrived safely in Tirana, Albania last night (tuesday) after flying (with no hitches at all--except for one short delay--and even short lines!) from LAX to London, Switching airports from heathrow to gatwick, and then on to Tirana.

we arrived last night at dark, took a little bus with Genci, the pastor who is working with us, to our different host homes. i am staying with kendra, we live with a kind single woman named eva. she speaks a decent amount of English, enjoys travel and cooking, and is a wonderful cook so far--which of course delights me. ;) we woke this morning, not too early, for some orientation, and then lunch at a restaurant (delicious pasta etc, nice, and not expensive at all compared to america). then we were given a map of the city and explored it a bit in groups with a couple of Tirana natives as our guides.

i am trying to learn bits of albanian as i can--today i tried to tackle pronunciation, and found out that the albanian alphabet has 36 letters. even some of the ones they do share with us are completely differenty from our pronunciation-- found out q is pronouced ch, and y like u or "oo."

the city is bustling, full of a million sights and sounds and smells. i hope i will have more time next time to tell you about it. but for now i am safe and secure, and doing well. haven't even cried yet, but was quite humbled last night too think i was halfway across the world staying in the home of a kind stranger. wow. God is great. pray for us, we are all well. i miss you guys!

Jessie

Soon to come--pictures from exploring the city!

Tirana

Wed. 5-12-10-- TIRANA

Last night at 4 or 5 AM I think, I heard the Muslim call to prayer from the mosque… Very strange, at first I thought I might be imagining it.

Today was a lovely day. The air was warm and most, but with enough cool breeze and clouds most of the day, though when we explored the city on foot it was a bit warm. Lots of walking!

Perhaps I shall tell you a bit about the city. Tirana is often loud and bustling—the cars do not wait for pedestrians, unless they fear one might dent their car. I think I’ve heard there are two parts: Old Tirana and New Tirana. Old Tirana shows its age and reflects its former troubled times—buildings that are colorful and vibrant, but crumbling with decay in parts. Flower gardens often showing out over the many balconies, with clothes hanging out on the lines.

Eva’s apartment building is full of potholes and dips in the stairs, even though the inside of her home is beautiful. There are hens and a turkey and dogs and a building with a crumbling clay shingle roof below us.

Since after communism fell, the bottom stories of so many buildings have been made into shops, for clothes and almost everything else. There are many street vendors (and a few beggars) and the street is full of smells—people, vegetables, smoke (from cooking and cigarettes), roasted things, and every imaginable food smell and perfumes. So overwhelming to my senses it almost makes me nauseous. ;)

Albania: First night

Made it into Tirana and met our hosts just before bedtime. Kendra and I are roommates; our host is Eva, a warm, kind, single woman and believer. Her apartment home, previously having been occupied by herself and her parents, is small but beautiful and kept with neatness and care. After our hike up 4 flights of stairs to the 5th floor (and after having been greeted by her enthusiastic handshake), we were greeted by the warm delicious smell of her cooking (likely for us). We gladly agreed when she offered it to us (this was my learned practice in Mexico ;) ) and watched as she meticulously laid out a pretty table cloth, napkins, silverware, plate and dish. She offered us a seat and served us yummy tomato vegetable soup, eggs with zucchini and ham and other things mixed in, and a flaky buttery roll with filling (she told us it was a traditional Albanian food, Byrek). All wonderful, and she likes to cook (a mixture of Albanian, Greek, and Italian, she said). Nice. Found out the Albanian equivalent of "bon appetit"--T'bufte mire. Albanian will take practice... for now, I must sleep...

(not my picture; from 2005)

Over the Atlantic

And so we head to Albania!

It will be a trip of firsts. Right now is my first big international flight, and naturally I'm enthralled by the experience. Others not so much, but I'm always so.Our flight is a bit delayed due to some volcano activity in Iceland. We're about to take off, just about dusk. I'm about dead center near the rear of the plane, 47F, but I can still lean a bit and see out the windows.

So for exciting things (which may in fact be mundane to others):

1. The plane is huge--double decker cabin and the seats are 3-4-3 across... pretty tall cabin too.
2. People from many different places speaking different languages.
3. Yay for British Airways flight attendants (many male) and captains with British accents and funny mannerisms!
4. Goody bag! headphones, socks?, and a travel toothbrush with a tiny little toothpaste tube (I warned you. Mundane to most.).
5. Little personal TV. I watched "The Middle."

The first ever stamp in my passport was in London at Heathrow. We went by bus to Gatwick airport--not much through the city, more the country, but it was pretty and green, treesy (I am just realizing this might not be a word), with a cloudy gray chilled sky.

The food on the flight to Tirana is definitely not as good (although at least I didn't almost throw up on my neighbor this time...;) ). I'm guessing it's probably British. ;) Goodbye to the funny-shaped cars with yellow license plates going the wrong way on the roads... ;)

I need Dad or Scott here to finish my food. The guy next to me finished his mysterious Scottish fruitcake happily. Apart from the rest of the group, I silently held up my "cheddar onion chutney wrap" to Stephen, motioning to offer it to the rest of the group. He grinned and held up three of their own that hadn't been eaten either... Fair. :P

Below us now in the hazy dark are the lights of Tirana. The cars are slow and the lights on our plane's wings seem brighter than those in the dimly lit city.

Hello, new friend.